![]() Following a lot of "good" advise on the NET can quickly result in broken ring lands, rod bearings pounded down to the copper if you start throwing a butt-load of timing at that engine early in the RPM range. It's making PLENTY of cylinder pressure and doesn't need all the timing in right off idle or much of it. I'd also stay off of Youtube or at least realize that most of those videos are highly flawed and not done by folks who really understand the requirements of you late 1960's stock 290hp engine with #46 heads on it and factory camshaft. That's what I use here in the shop when I build distributors and wouldn't touch a Pertronix with a 200' pole, have had so many issues with those POS in recent years (I suspect they went to offshore production at some point) I avoid them like the plague. I'd also avoid the temptation to do a points "conversion" but I would obtain a set or two of OEM points off Ebay instead of over the counter. Do NOT put aftermarket parts in the distributor, stock weights and springs are fine for what you are doing. ![]() ![]() I use a stainless steel sleeve here to replace them. The factory used a thin rubber sleeve on the pin and they are usually missing or cracked and brittle. Only the "top shelf" varieties with the IWIS chain and billet steel sprockets are worth two squirts of duck poop right to start with making the stock 3/4" wide link-belt chain a far better bargain and it will last the life of your engine.Īnyhow, I'd remove the distributor and take it apart, clean things up, polish the shaft, lube the mechanical advance mechasism up well and put it back together. Non are nearly as strong as the stock chain nor to they have constant tooth contact. Personally, despite what folks tend to recommend I would NOT put a double roller timing set on it for any reason. Replace it with a factory type Cloyes or Melling timing set with a metal top gear. They are known to start flaking off the plastic and plug up the oil pick-up and eventually fail. ![]() Replacing the timing set is a good idea as the factory used Morse type sets back then with a plastic coated top gear. Heat is your friend with thermal efficiency so do NOT put a lower temp thermostat in it. High compression engines with stock cams in them will not like a lot of initial timing and likely to "buck" the starter fully heat soaked on a hot re-start. There was a picture of it sitting directly in the middle of a huge building just waiting for its next life. Interestingly it was found in an abandoned GM building in Lansing. Seems to have had one round of mediocre body work done on it. It’s in really good shape for what it is. Also, to answer an earlier question I don’t imagine it’s had timing chains replaced. I’ve been thinking about going with a 180 or even 160 but there are so many opinions in every direction. But it doesn’t appear to matter because my car pings at 24 degrees mechanical with my 2.56 rear gears. That leaves me to assume they have aftermarket distributors. My thing is I read all these guys saying they have 34 degrees mechanical but I’ve read the specs on the lists of 60s distributors and it appears to be they had between 10 and 14 degrees mechanical advance just like mine. Pings at moderate part throttle which I understand has vacuum involved. The 290 Hp motors stated 10.5 camp was as we all known 10 to one at best. Ok, it / they pinged, when at part throttle or full throttle?Īt part throttle that was due to some level of vacuum advance being in which would not be the case at full throttle. So, with all that said, is my factory centrifugal adjustable at all? Or do I have to go aftermarket? Am I even thinking right to try to get to 34 degrees without vacuum? I appreciate any help for a complete newbie. It’s factory points distributor that doesn’t appear to be adjustable at all. This setup actually appears to be exactly the way the factory set it. ![]() So initial, vacuum, and centrifugal bring me to 34 currently. I get 12 degrees max with my vacuum hooked up. If I set initial anywhere near 9 degrees that gives me 22. I have an absolute max of 13 degrees centrifugal with everything lubed and both springs taken off. With my stock configuration that’s not possible unless I set initial very high. A lot of the forum posts and YouTube videos I’ve watched recommend I set total timing at 32 to 36 degrees with the vacuum unhooked. So I’ve been reading everything I can get my hands on about timing and tuning. I just recently bought my first classic car. ![]()
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